芒市,是傣语中“黎明之城”的音译。最初知道这个城市是因为这是 cbvivi的家乡,他也拍过很多在芒市的美食 vlog。后面小奶球在她的滇西之旅中,也推荐了很多芒市的美食。另外这个近乎异域的亚热带小城,也有着独特的魅力,不停地吸引着我们想要去探索。
其实早在一年半前,我们就开始筹谋这一次出行,但是一直没有什么时间,而且碍于各地随时可能发生的防疫风险。终于在7月份,我们定下了9月去往这个黎明之城的行程。随后两个月时间内,我们收集了关于芒市的目的地并以此制定了四天的旅游计划。我还为这次的旅行设计了一个网页(by astro),点击链接首页的“Learn More” 就可以跳转到我们使用 notion 整理的行程。里面在芒市的部分大多数来自于 cbvivi 关于芒市的几期视频和小奶球的滇西旅行。
住在民宿
然后我们预定了住宿的酒店:DOXA 西餐厅。这是一家外国人开在芒市的民宿兼西餐厅,提供多种舒适的房型和美味的早餐。而且地理位置离金塔十分近。而且作为旅居的酒店,卫生是最重要的,我觉得他们在这方面做得非常不错。还有就是有很多面大镜子,可以留下很多镜前合照。
![餐厅一角](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fd8025613-d0ca-4d3a-814d-5888de0279fc%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=e87ae953-b07e-4887-ba42-0bd5c72ab2f0&cache=v2)
![可以看到店员在唱歌](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F3781e337-5aa2-414c-a645-6e6cb48d5a3b%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=918a6ab1-b705-4594-9d7c-5f950c86638a&cache=v2)
![镜前合影](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F7204faef-f9d9-44e8-b09f-71840b6001a7%2FUntitled.png?table=block&id=3fa68d49-675b-423a-92a6-e921a68fb3c7&cache=v2)
![免费早餐](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F14eab4f4-12fa-49a4-ad30-12f26f0c5f7d%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=d29381ad-70f0-4ebe-8e77-506345fffd7c&cache=v2)
第一天
户撒阿昌过手米线
因为我到达芒市已经是下午,休息了一下就立马出发开始我们的芒市美食探索。我的第一餐是过手米线,我们选择的店是在当地也很有名的户撒阿昌过手米线。这是阿昌族的特色美食,饭如其名得需要用手吃。一个套餐会包含一份红米线、包菜丝、肉糜、萝卜干牛肉汤、豆腐汤、胡辣椒、小米辣碎和折耳根。
![过手米线](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F1fb217d9-6180-42d8-8a50-af1a4a354a14%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=c1c10f66-f228-4914-8e96-c5864c3f6675&cache=v2)
过手米线感觉值得一吃,主要是这种吃法非常有趣,先在手心放一小坨米线,然后一次加上肉糜和自己喜欢的配菜和调料,最后放在嘴边暴风吸入。另外这个萝卜干真的非常好吃!
散步
吃完之后我们出门在芒市的大街上转了转,看到了很多奇特的热带城市景观,比如行道树是龙眼和榕树,树木上长满了蕨类或者兰花,火龙果被当作是绿植种植在庭院和屋顶,狂野生长到几层楼高的龟背竹。
![长满蕨类的树](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F2171d2d5-03bc-4060-9512-8c59fe4dc56a%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=d292b70e-aaf3-4609-b419-f394731d71ca&cache=v2)
![院子里的火龙果](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F99c2ef0b-e6d6-442f-add8-418e302ddd86%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=2583b8c9-e5d7-44a3-99ac-c32aec23cf37&cache=v2)
百思特美食
然后我们来到了久负盛名的百思特美食,这里是一个当地小吃合集,一个小小的美食广场卖着各具特色的德宏或周边的美食。我们在这里吃了勐焕老奶、甘英泡鸡脚还有阿吉古小吃,其中勐焕老奶的泡鲁达、石榴汁和牛油果汁非常值得一喝,甘英泡鸡脚我最推荐的是西番莲味和木姜子味,阿吉谷小吃的粑粑和油面都值得一吃。
![泡鲁达 * 3](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F4aeb9949-d8fb-4af5-968a-021cc2f007a8%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=bd787df7-4d3d-4647-812c-90d6b6b32419&cache=v2)
![缅甸油面](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fb50f24d3-8def-4bf1-9f49-8f35cb88dc3f%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=e47647ae-a82f-4cd9-a4f4-d80d24fb84bf&cache=v2)
勐焕大金塔
接下来打车去了勐焕大金塔,门票40,因为不是旅游季游客比较少,非常清净。另外金塔四面的观景台可以看到芒市的全貌,再加上高度相对比较高,可以较好的开启看云模式。另外山下的小吃店内的果汁不建议购买,没有山下的好喝。
![勐焕大金塔](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Ff98cf080-0603-41d9-8dff-fd6dd6d125c6%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=9c541915-7158-41f7-849e-2d98f77c2b06&cache=v2)
![金塔中](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F20a39ac9-cb32-4619-b68d-53963dbd97d9%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=6d2c7a6f-a4ac-4747-9672-7e4333648d2d&cache=v2)
![拍云的哨子](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Ff3acb451-02c1-434e-80b1-f87ae816f1e6%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=61e9db49-18cd-4392-9ac8-314bf95fa7b3&cache=v2)
![云下的芒市](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F0d8ec5ab-1c67-4cb3-99e3-0d5cd835d543%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=d4a29fd9-7206-4e31-9997-641fa39c0922&cache=v2)
![鸡蛋花](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F6093cf0d-b2de-4fad-a3a8-23c3615d3937%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=290bafdc-1b78-4a45-becf-2887f0accef5&cache=v2)
勐焕银塔
另一个比较有名的景点银塔就在金塔下方的山头,建议放在一起游览,银塔使用游云南预约后门票只需20。另外爬山需要一段路,右边的梯子比较省力,但在左边的盘山路可以找到拍摄金塔的最佳点。我们选择的就是会累得半死的盘山路。另外银塔有很多网红打卡的设置,除了本体还有一个花园,银塔四周也可以看到芒市的村庄。我们去的时候非常幸运遇到金光洒下来照亮了一块区域,非常美。
![从银塔山腰看金塔](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F21c7f55e-63a5-4bcd-b127-9aece3256cbc%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=fe4d5247-0f7f-4ca6-991e-26f1db86994d&cache=v2)
![被照亮的山谷](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F0c1889e3-6acb-4f8d-aba5-af2d056858e9%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=a186c02d-1d06-48f0-99d0-f24097e77c9e&cache=v2)
![在入口看银塔](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fa92ded6e-da35-4bcf-b4dc-5cc72b452bd8%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=e8918631-638b-4638-a338-7da78ca97907&cache=v2)
![在银塔看云](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fba694d53-a77e-449f-9592-459da70e59c3%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=2931ab25-5f99-4109-a708-5c1bc4cdf1d3&cache=v2)
![在银塔看云2](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F0511a29a-91d6-442d-a1c5-79858fcf131a%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=7582d0f7-4a21-45e7-ad26-d3fd66e7f2c4&cache=v2)
![银塔本体](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F5a6d0e75-5aab-4154-9b7b-c5f427f52f78%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=4a32b5e4-9759-4ee1-89fe-3a1f8e2ca978&cache=v2)
景颇绿叶宴
接下来我们去吃了景颇绿叶宴,这是景颇族的一种饮食习惯,会将包烧和凉拌的菜和米饭铺在芭蕉叶上用手抓起来一起吃。我们去的地方是在一个景颇族聚集的大湾村,很偏僻到出租车司机都害怕我们回不来。我们到了的时候也被四周荒凉的气氛搞得怀疑人生,就连进入院子都需要穿山过河,然后吃饭的时候也和蚊子相伴。不过现在想起来环境还是格外幽静,值得一去。
![景颇鬼鸡](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F72029e94-1344-497d-a0a1-1d32c278f57a%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=19f670a4-2ce7-4c63-bfb8-0bb2940ab465&cache=v2)
![烤小手标鱼](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F499adc46-ce80-4340-a236-b203989bf4d8%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=0c2064ef-9d02-45ef-bca6-95df8356479b&cache=v2)
![吃完饭出来后的天空](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F7b17f586-7f9f-4206-bfaf-9bb5b3064d40%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=b8e5d95e-2f6a-47eb-901f-084752a26186&cache=v2)
![煮南瓜](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F27f53fcf-0907-49e1-99e9-737b296abb2e%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=3c42c3e2-8813-4640-82db-8321a4184e08&cache=v2)
![烤猪肉配腌菜膏](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F2679828b-c3e9-4ea9-add5-aa8deca0c7cd%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=fc6d01ff-e13a-4b69-8558-46567e557ba9&cache=v2)
![荒野出租车](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fbbbb99bf-cf40-4120-8b29-d878cda9da97%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=34d1b835-04b4-49b4-8453-08301d7fa241&cache=v2)
这一餐算是吃的最开心的一餐,因为同行的哨子在此之前都是不吃鱼的,这个烤鱼竟然让他惊呼是人生吃过最好吃的鱼。再加上把菜和饭捏在一起近乎在做手握,吃起来也格外开心。另外就是真的美味,无论是烤猪肉还是烤鱼还是景颇鬼鸡,都是在内地难得吃到的美味。
新玩场夜市
吃完这顿饭后,我们还是艰难的打到了车,启程前外西里夜市城。另外值得一提的是芒市的出租车司机都格外的好,遇到你拍照甚至会默默减速。但是西里夜市只是一个烧烤一条街,我们大失所望去了出租车司机在车上推荐的新玩场夜市,这里有很多网红小吃,也有很多烧烤店,是本地人晚上消遣的所在。我在这里买了花、滇橄榄、芭蕉、释迦和克力唠,然后参观了很多德宏特有的农产。我们还喝了泰式奶茶和吃了烤包浆豆腐。
![在夜市的收获](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F4f431f39-dd3c-4510-b9f2-6ee6f7cdec56%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=cd3db9a1-7bd9-41ca-a0a4-5cccb1271db9&cache=v2)
![金雀瓜](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fc57417bc-0fb6-4db4-af82-e0ff943f4bc2%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=b464671b-c7ec-4c6f-acd8-64b9a048600f&cache=v2)
![哨子和西北](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Ffd6304c5-54af-4876-a557-fa7fc0a48ede%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=7a22b662-1b12-48cb-b5c4-543ce25fd397&cache=v2)
![新鲜的草果](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fc6651aa4-beeb-4c84-ba89-9ebf0693023a%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=837e2f4e-1ded-47b6-8476-2a048f9b1e7d&cache=v2)
![大苦子](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F27229cdf-1ddd-447d-8d5b-5d75a643927b%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=1b454115-677c-4dd1-a28b-4cd50f5c3d72&cache=v2)
逛完夜市之后回到民宿,然后就开始了水果品鉴大会。最值得一提的是滇橄榄,我们像 BDSM 一样一边忍受着它的苦涩,一边期待它的回甘。你就能看到三个人一脸凝重的咀嚼转而惊喜:“回甘了!”。另外失策的是买了克力唠,我们以为它是一种橄榄,但其实是本地需要加工成果脯的一种野果,基本无法直接食用。
第二天
第二天我们创造了一天七顿的记录,因为芒市实在太好吃了,两天的行程实在太赶。
民宿西式早餐
我们一起吃了民宿的早餐,提供了可颂、吐司配培根和鸡蛋,水果沙拉还有咖啡
![notion image](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Ff872a887-4a51-416e-a036-f87c6d7244ab%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=3d1f7866-7802-476b-8b06-1a17c0f91cf7&cache=v2)
![notion image](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fca3cf9bc-02b9-4b06-b7ff-5c81c2679a3d%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=bb97b374-9ce6-44ad-b189-eac7fe26d645&cache=v2)
林氏园子
牛肉圆子是傣族的特色之一,这家店主要买园子饵丝,但是我们去的时候园子已经售罄。不过普通的饵丝已经足够好吃。我们点了两份粑粑和一份小碗饵丝分着吃,还点了冰奶茶和冰咖啡,顺便说一句芒市几乎所有早餐店都有冰奶茶和冰咖啡,但从味道来说我觉得这家店的最佳。而且这家店我觉得最值得吃的是鸡蛋粑粑,建议在店面不忙的时候看下他们的制作手法,赏心悦目。
![饵丝](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F380204fe-58a8-4b02-b34a-cb218297ba57%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=e58babd7-dbfd-4190-aef4-027bf8a8217e&cache=v2)
![冰奶茶 vs 冰咖啡](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F746e5a65-a91e-481e-b22c-b25f0d27f8a9%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=1a0a7c69-9623-4fdd-8d49-0a79d636859d&cache=v2)
![鸡蛋粑粑](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F1a40258a-d99f-40a4-a6d3-d5450a556939%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=d2085eb6-7d39-41f9-8def-b0af919eb475&cache=v2)
保平酸牛肉早点
在芒市好吃的早点实在太多了,可能是因为我们贪心不想留遗憾,所以吃了三顿早饭,但最后还剩下锅贴店没有去吃。酸牛肉早点是比较特色的,牛肉饵丝在酸汤中,小料台可以添加海量的薄荷一起吃。我们还点了克力唠果汁,但在这时我们还没有意识到这就是我们买的难以入口的小果子。酸牛肉汤里有着很多炖煮软烂的牛肉和牛筋,薄荷被烫熟后伴着韧韧的饵丝入口,清爽美味。口感更多的是酸辣,而且这份酸好像不来自于醋或者柠檬,其实挺好奇是怎么制作的。
![酸牛肉和薄荷](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F14509a7f-2f35-4347-a63c-2261f2dd9b17%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=5e894c12-4a86-4ec6-b12b-6ed2547d776c&cache=v2)
![腾冲饵丝](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F06a180fe-1ebc-47d0-bde1-48c9d01788f1%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=c711888e-c396-4324-939b-98bdd6a1447e&cache=v2)
![克力唠果汁](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fc782adeb-cff7-4ef0-aee1-16fb1da0efae%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=2012094a-09d2-49bf-a304-6292ef045f01&cache=v2)
花园综合市场
花园综合市场距离保平酸牛肉不远,如果吃完可以顺便来消消食,这里也可以看到很多本地的农产品和风土人情。
![胭脂果](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F137eff30-d629-4b9d-9efa-2fc852d4b8b1%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=e729571b-68fd-4845-872d-905af0e32a7d&cache=v2)
![涮涮辣](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F279d4e4f-d861-4426-b6ff-03e422ad93a7%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=fb46d84b-1683-4d03-a35c-b01edb5d2e91&cache=v2)
![撇菜根](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Faa8764ba-1bec-4f5b-991c-6042b028c120%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=e6821d53-efe2-41c3-b139-2245fa04c8a3&cache=v2)
![香橼](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F7e679a23-0691-4aec-8579-b248325983e4%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=f9e3c9c1-2aa0-419f-8829-8afb85730fc7&cache=v2)
![芋荷](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F6a606213-eadd-4482-84e4-9cc662e501ee%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=1037368e-bc4e-40bf-8e56-baf3488a7d1e&cache=v2)
![苦子](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fc4c228f9-3e0e-401f-b81f-6691b9f9d42e%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=4e2399e9-3026-4786-8462-dc0f114749e3&cache=v2)
![树番茄](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F09726d0f-52c4-483f-b4ad-9830e6a97a4b%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=34a3dcf5-b320-4296-a939-114b6a466c7e&cache=v2)
![老缅芫荽和香柳](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F7b7dc1a8-7ffc-4f3d-bbc7-7e41fb30d06a%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=a5786662-b60c-4bfa-83cc-af383d41a308&cache=v2)
岩明农家乐
在当地“岩”字读 “ai”,这家店位于丙门村,最有名的菜是虾撒,据说只要和出租车司机说去吃虾撒的那家就能给你送达。然后他们的点菜方式比较特别,会掐取一道菜里面的部分来作为点菜单,最后看着自己的菜单有点不知所以确很有意思的感觉。
我们点了炸苦子、炖牛筋、老奶洋芋、树番茄拌折耳根和虾撒。虾撒是生虾肉糜搭配香料和柠檬汁,吃的时候用旁边的菜蘸取虾撒,配菜有生茼蒿、包菜丝、生皮和炸虾头。就算是吃生皮搭配虾撒入口也丝毫不觉得油腻。苦子是一种看上去像豌豆的茄科植物,也菜如其名的苦苦的。树番茄拌折耳根是我想吃树番茄点的,但没想到是和折耳根一起吃,同行的两位没有西南血统无福消受,一整盘都属于我。老奶洋芋是用水腌菜和土豆泥一起做的,而且云南的土豆格外的软糯,我在回家后网购了水腌菜复刻却输在土豆的口感上。
![丙门村](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F5e442bcd-a230-4c61-8f58-a9a6b9648e49%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=44a93b2e-f4a5-4a2e-92a3-04b0c22b576c&cache=v2)
![右上起依次是 炸苦子、树番茄拌折耳根、老奶洋芋、虾撒](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F516e4e81-8d56-4d12-b7ed-32d7eff32bb9%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=661299e0-f50f-45a4-b67e-557af0bcbab1&cache=v2)
![虾撒](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F8f5bb1a5-0e3e-4632-a810-f62b14858675%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=9b13582f-80e3-4442-a761-ef6a3c26bdde&cache=v2)
![主人家的大 house](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F03461ba0-5f80-4dd3-a0ce-c66c9206faf6%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=35afbd9c-e779-46da-98ec-86fa40ebe553&cache=v2)
![菜](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F79a2e94f-97e6-428a-bde5-eef28c21c067%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=27303619-fcba-40b2-a52d-de3cd2f755bd&cache=v2)
![老奶洋芋](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F4c021f3d-b4de-40a0-aa8c-d3d87d077131%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=04ba1d48-4da5-4650-b471-bbd2ac53f9ce&cache=v2)
中场休息
吃完后我们回到民宿稍作休息,然后又去了第二次金塔看日落。这一次芒市的天空相当宠幸我们,我们看到了丁达尔效应、飞机穿行、彩虹云和日落。
![芒市街上的椰子树](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fd66d1e7f-834d-4941-a0e3-4f52b9183a74%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=41b463fd-09dd-4456-bddb-197f41bf70fc&cache=v2)
![阿喝咖啡店](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fa88508fc-ef16-4b7f-b6a9-e43b9fa9bae6%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=3a49004a-cf5f-47fb-904c-193f870340ab&cache=v2)
![飞机在丁达尔效应中](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F1bb86869-18d7-4263-8ee4-f1dc1f21841b%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=1f27b658-edc5-4804-b649-3c78cfa6255f&cache=v2)
![傍晚的金塔](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F0c03b0e9-be1f-4f81-be6d-2b0d6dcc139f%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=50bc28a5-2077-40d6-b8e1-3e1a85848652&cache=v2)
![夜市买的花插在民宿](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fd5241660-f7b1-44e8-b7db-01c8ad4a963a%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=6bc9049d-cd9e-46d8-945d-6ccaddea0440&cache=v2)
![一只灵缇](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F355aec93-8acb-4d12-b387-1552fd99ea68%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=a1f1c646-93e3-4217-a51f-df340315a21b&cache=v2)
![金塔日落](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fea6c1938-8c04-4f76-84b4-0cd483a13899%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=367d91a1-728c-4a95-b574-77658807a2f9&cache=v2)
![晚霞](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fc303a80e-e5fd-4377-8ca6-cea440f21979%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=4f737d60-3c5f-45a4-bd5f-325af37513e3&cache=v2)
美旺傣味
美旺傣味是来自小奶球的推荐,很多道地的傣味小炒,对着点菜柜选择自己不认识的蔬菜一顿乱点就是我的喜好。我们点了凉拌四棱豆、炒糯玉米、傣味炸猪皮、炒棕苞和芝麻牛干巴。
这里面的每一道菜基本都很很难在异地去复刻的,棕苞是棕树的花,味道苦中带甜,催嫩回甘(又是回甘),特别是花的部分像是植物鱼子。傣味炸猪皮外脆内韧,配上腌菜膏吃丝毫不觉得油腻,不过要趁热,凉了之后口感会变差。
![凉拌四棱豆](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F7b668c82-1d74-41e9-96a2-406d1bcc59b9%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=73f6a05d-2b47-4377-9c12-8539abe8db45&cache=v2)
![炒糯玉米](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F4b7ce6b4-d185-4652-9ace-e3529b6f87dc%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=854e97d3-6505-48f9-8883-4992387fd09c&cache=v2)
![傣味炸猪皮](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F19971f13-0e7b-453f-967d-a434dda41343%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=4113a2e6-efb3-41ef-9153-ae91cd844498&cache=v2)
![炒棕苞](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F91568b92-db60-4f25-84c5-984931a409d1%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=26e0316f-cdb5-43f6-b549-67c28c2ac400&cache=v2)
建水秀华菊花过桥米线
这家店也是一个比较有意思的店,名字是过桥米线却买的是烧烤。一张小桌,一个火塘,一人一盘蘸水围坐着吃。每桌必点的是涮牛肉,说是涮却更像是烤,说是烤却又是在煎炸。一小碟的香料和薄荷浸润在油里,在火上加热后,将新鲜的牛肉片在盘中涮熟后蘸上蘸水食用。我们还点了包浆豆腐,但是烤的时候总是在翻面和猜测是否烤熟。
![烤桌](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fef8e088a-c8d8-4e46-9ddd-d2a6f8f60d1a%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=50140456-bfab-47a6-b0b5-ca9d68391a65&cache=v2)
![鼓起来的包浆豆腐](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F7513e68f-8873-41d0-a74d-75fc332661e2%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=80171db4-8dc8-4c44-b225-65461b4ae23b&cache=v2)
![豆腐和涮牛肉的容器](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F5c929ead-d6e6-4ba2-88d2-e4c469e93b38%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=0b596974-5894-46c7-b68b-f70fd874585b&cache=v2)
离开芒市
我们回到民宿后准备第二天离开芒市去往大理,但心中还是充满了不舍。这次旅行抱憾是因为还没有吃牛耙烀、撒撇和绿叶烧烤。
第二天早上我们去吃了颇有传奇色彩的烂路早点,据说很久之前店所处的河东路是一条“烂路”,于是店主人把店面取做烂路早点,后来路修改了,店面却保留了下来。烂路早点有名的是他的传奇小料台,细数有二三十多种,去吃的时候对着小料们有种手足无措的感觉。
这碗饵丝里有着满满的牛肉和牛肉汤,剩下的口味都全凭个人在小料台的操作,可以说一千个人口中就有一千碗烂路早点!
![小料台](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F521cbd0a-995b-4237-9ba6-bb9c150c8e1f%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=06ea7e95-f0b5-4e9a-a6b0-79a96295b97f&cache=v2)
![被塞满薄荷的牛肉饵丝们](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fa39ada6f-2771-43ac-9a21-919ab80e1151%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=66226963-5aec-467a-900d-a0be0c4e17d6&cache=v2)
![牛肉饵丝](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fbabd619b-bedc-437e-8ffb-f3de13e11561%2FUntitled.jpeg?table=block&id=07bff5c3-dee1-42c5-b705-9bae096e7766&cache=v2)
最后分享一首来自德宏老爹的芒市小夜曲。