其实从杭州到绍兴很方便,只需要坐地铁,但来杭州两年,我基本没去过其他的浙江城市。一是肆意的疫情,二是工作总是不得闲。去绍兴,也只是一个临时起意的飞镖式决定,当时只是和朋友要挑选一个能当日往返的目的地。
非典型古镇和新古镇
古镇,这个词一直在被滥用,因为很多叫古镇的地方,可能并不“古”,甚至也算不得“镇”。在我不多的旅游记忆中,我一直是以“吃”作为旅游的主线索的。而古镇在我的印象中,是一个全国统一模版的倾销各种牛轧糖、麻花、玫瑰饼的地方,其间再夹杂几间咖啡店和礼品店。再加上现在各地为了宣传自己本地文化,进行了大量的新古镇建设或者对原生态古镇进行一些破坏性重建。有的人乐在其中,而我对这种地方避而远之。
安昌古镇
虽然这里包含了一些新修建的旅游设施,但是穿过这一切,这个镇子就安静的待在这里,没有被商业侵染也没有被过度改造,沿着水流而建,水面上搭起一座又一座有意思的桥。沿街的商铺也都是原住民开设,贩卖着本地的土产——酱肉和香肠,或是家庭作坊式的馆子卖着绍兴菜和小吃。而背后的房子又饱含着生活气息。如果有人来绍兴旅游的话,我应该会推荐这里。
![蒸好的酱肉](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F72d0bee0-b6d2-4ef0-b52e-67cbc5062863%2F_R004876.jpg?table=block&id=1ed415aa-32cb-4464-b90d-33463772899b&cache=v2)
![一家家庭饭店的备菜](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fb0ec3b36-ef73-472c-ac8e-a7fe34ed448d%2F_R004884.jpg?table=block&id=c5f0ceea-cccb-4b7a-8153-95204c8aa5c6&cache=v2)
![桥](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F52cd3ceb-d900-4d63-8cd1-5b53eec5314f%2F_R004920.jpg?table=block&id=78b8705e-fa9f-4ddf-a96d-92c95b5787cb&cache=v2)
![捕鱼的人](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Facb31786-0f0c-4f89-8a71-dd8c3a671a89%2F_R004903.jpg?table=block&id=06f44874-4264-495a-a962-be0042a0b464&cache=v2)
![寺院外墙的凌霄花](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F9267fb26-f3d3-4a61-92d6-ccfddb4297e6%2F_R004913.jpg?table=block&id=08f229d2-e878-41ef-8fdf-53345a635fbd&cache=v2)
![晾晒中的酱肉](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F9f691fb9-ac01-4b81-b2d7-6f2df83d243a%2F_R004880.jpg?table=block&id=114c5465-a525-4709-aa08-150d4475e4ab&cache=v2)
![桥2](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fee1d4032-46cd-48e5-946b-7de70f41299e%2F_R004896.jpg?table=block&id=8ee9c5f4-4c70-4912-bd2b-74aac426b3f1&cache=v2)
![捕鱼的人2](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Feb591ac2-aee2-40d7-a273-fc15d62382b0%2F_R004908.jpg?table=block&id=0b4f48f6-947b-42d5-a34a-36943092fa34&cache=v2)
![酱厂空地的凌霄花](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F3a6f8a6d-d633-4152-921c-b7802e73dfde%2F_R004924.jpg?table=block&id=428076f2-74a0-4b97-ab55-e002cd05d2ae&cache=v2)
![酒酿馒头](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fa84424bd-d042-4c42-9575-a811efb77b16%2F_R004911.jpg?table=block&id=6db7cd2d-4d7b-4e6f-8747-8f1ff5d0b110&cache=v2)
![傍晚的安昌古镇](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fa241561c-fe41-45b3-95d0-ff5f8eaebff0%2F_R004923.jpg?table=block&id=9575e342-0830-4c0a-9f81-3bc61e1bdc7b&cache=v2)
鲁镇
鲁镇是一个典型的新古镇,沿着鉴湖而建,利用鲁迅的名气串联了社戏和越剧,可以看得出来用心,但是建筑格局不好,整个古镇不是特别通风,即使在晚上还是很热,反而在安昌古镇,在正晒的下午也没有感受到热度。而且可能受到疫情影响,沿街的商铺也大多倒闭。不过这里晚上会有免费的越剧表演,满足了戏迷,也向游客输出了文化,很棒。
然后来到这里才知道,这里是大名鼎鼎的镜湖。
我欲因之梦吴越,一夜飞度镜湖月。
![巨大的荷花](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Ffeeb396e-f457-4320-b5e5-7fae554eafc6%2F_R004930.jpg?table=block&id=624564dc-f024-4a6b-abe8-931b54db0a8b&cache=v2)
![萧条的古镇夜色](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F37c4f251-ad3d-4a80-85da-9f0b7bea4394%2F_R004933.jpg?table=block&id=b608ce01-f000-4250-9b0b-fcec46b36db0&cache=v2)
![越剧](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2F7d048b8e-9d86-421a-b69e-67647ac54d5c%2F_R004936.jpg?table=block&id=756f3c5d-f7be-4de6-a4a8-d22e825b06bc&cache=v2)
最后体验了一下绍兴菜,绍兴的黄酒和臭豆腐、臭苋菜早已经名扬千里,但是我感觉并不是太对我的胃口。黄酒做的菜味道都太冲了,而臭苋菜杆,之前看到关于它的视频我还以为是和腐乳或者其他腌渍品一样咸鲜,但其实只有臭味,鲜味并不明显。
![醉虾](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fbad1889d-46a1-4602-95fd-fa451a53d149%2F_R004942.jpg?table=block&id=e6830cc2-fed5-44a5-8b8b-25c8a2f31de2&cache=v2)
![黄酒布丁](https://www.notion.so/image/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com%2Fsecure.notion-static.com%2Fe7793dd7-7617-4802-809c-d29864b4a6c6%2F_R004943.jpg?table=block&id=422af8f9-204a-4cc1-bb10-852e4f584ed4&cache=v2)